Your Binding and Finishing Partner
May 2011

FOCUS ON LAYFLAT PERFECT BINDING
A book created using layflat binding.
Layflat perfect binding - also known as Otabind - is useful in many situations. Though the heyday of printed manuals and reference materials has passed, we still do a surprising amount of Layflat work.
The L in Layflat Binding is capitalized to highlight the style, but not necessarily the function. That’s because Layflat perfect binding sometimes does not lie flat. For example, most thin books will not lie flat because there is simply not enough weight. The effectiveness of Layflat perfect binding depends on the following factors:
  1. Size of the book: 8.5” x 11” sizes will lie flat better than 6” x 9” sizes.

  2. Page count: Books with more pages are more likely to lie flat. Usually, books that are 3/8” thick or more make for good Layflat perfect bound books.

  3. Paper grain: Stock running parallel to the grain will lie flat better than stock running against the grain.

  4. Glue: We apply extra strong PUR glue on all our layflat binding in just a wafer thin layer. Other glues may need to be applied in higher volume to hold the pages together, negating the layflat effect.
Still, some books lie flatter than others. For true layflat binding, go with a plastic or wire spiral bind or a double loop wire-o bind.

THE DEMOCRATIZATION OF PERFECT BINDING
It used to be that the only machines available for perfect binding were football field-long behemoths that took many hours to set up and years of operator skill to run. Only the largest printers and binderies had these machines. Now, many printers of all sizes have at least basic perfect binding machines.
Perfect binders now run the gamut , from the monster machines, through mid size (still fully automatic), all the way down to the smallest of table tops. Machines that do one-offs and automatically adjust between book thicknesses are also sprouting up in response to the growing demand for variable data printing.
Seaboard Bindery’s numerous perfect binding machines occupy the middle of the size spectrum but are still able to handle a wide variety of run sizes. Our in line Kolbus system features moderate makeready times and can handle high page count mainstream medium to longer run work with more rapid throughput. The Kolbus also offers layflat binding, bookblock preparation for casing in, and covers with flaps. Our Muller in line system features more automated makereadies, signature recognition, and other labor saving features. The Muller specializes in short to medium run work, from short run digital work up to larger runs of 10,000 and more traditional gather-bind-trim work.
Smaller hand fed binders typically do only the most basic binding work, but they do a nice job of it. For more difficult jobs, such as those involving covers with flaps and difficult stocks, the middle range binders with sophisticated cover feeders work best. Although PUR glue is available on all but the very smallest of binders to help your book stay together as long as possible, the key to perfect binding success lies with proper spine preparation. Without proper spine roughening and/or notching, even PUR bound books will fall apart.
Make sure your binder has the equipment to handle your kind of job. Don’t be short sighted by running a difficult job on an inadequate machine to save a few dollars.
THIS MONTH’S VIDEO: WIRE-O BINDING
This video demonstrates the main processes of wire-o (double loop) binding: Punching and Wire-O binding.
The process starts with book blocks that have been previously trimmed four sides. These books are loaded into our punch stacked on top of each other in collated order. The pile raises, enabling the stabber to grab several sheets, where they are registered, brought under the die, punched, and re-deposited in reverse collated order onto a conveyor.
The next step involves the binding, where the books are placed under a set of jaws holding a pre-cut wire element. The operator steps on a foot pedal, activating the jaws that will close the wire through the punch holes, forming the wire into a circle. The inside back cover faces up with the joint of the wire (where it closes) facing out. The last step involves flipping the back cover over into its proper position to hide the joint.